Buying a Hermès Birkin, Kelly, or Constance is more than a purchase; it’s an investment in history. But in the world of luxury resale, verifying that history is crucial. Unlike Chanel or Louis Vuitton, Hermès does not issue authenticity cards. Instead, they use a cryptic system embossed directly into the leather known as the Hermès Blind Stamp.
Whether you are a seasoned collector or a first-time buyer, understanding the Hermès date codes is the first step in determining the age and provenance of a bag.
Note: While blind stamps are a great indicator of age, they are not a guarantee of authenticity. Super-fakes often replicate these stamps perfectly. If you are about to make a high-value purchase, protect your investment with a Manual Expert Authentication from Legitique.
What is a Hermès Blind Stamp?
A Hermès blind stamp is a heat-stamped code found on Hermès leather goods. It is essentially the Hermès serial number, though it functions differently than a car's VIN or a Rolex serial.
The blind stamp typically contains two pieces of information:
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The Date Stamp: A letter that represents the year of manufacture.
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The Craftsman Stamp: Shapes, letters, or numbers that identify the specific artisan or atelier section that crafted the bag.
These stamps are called "blind" because they are usually embossed directly into the leather without gold or silver foil (though some rare exceptions exist).
Where to Find the Hermès Blind Stamp
Locating the stamp can be a treasure hunt, as the placement has changed over the decades.
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Pre-2016 (The "Strap" Era): On Birkin and Kelly bags, the stamps were typically found on the underside of the outer strap (the sangles).
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Post-2016 (The "Interior" Era): Hermès began moving the stamp to the interior of the bag. Look on the top of the side wall (gusset) inside the bag, often on the left side.
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Small Leather Goods (SLGs): On wallets and belts, the stamp is usually inside a pocket or near the stitching on the end of the strap.
Pro Tip: Do not confuse the blind stamp with the metallic "Hermès Paris Made in France" foil stamp on the front of the bag. That is the logo, not the date code.
How to Read Hermès Year Stamps (The Complete Chart)
Hermès uses a single letter to denote the year. To make things complicated (and exclusive), they change the shape surrounding the letter every roughly 25 years.
Here is the breakdown of Hermès year stamps by era.
1. The "Plain Letter" Era (1945 – 1970)
In the early days, Hermès used a simple capital letter with no shape surrounding it.
2. The "Circle" Era (1971 – 1996)
To distinguish the new cycle, Hermès encased the letter in a circle. If you see a Hermès date stamp with a circle, it is a vintage piece.
3. The "Square" Era (1997 – 2014)
This is one of the most common eras found on the second-hand market. The letters are encased in a square.
4. The Modern Era (2015 – Present)
Hermès returned to plain letters (no shape), but the system became less predictable to combat counterfeiters.
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2015: T
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2016: X
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2017: A
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2018: C
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2019: D
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2020: Y
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2021: Z
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2022: U
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2023: B
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2024: W
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2025/2026: (Note: Recent bags have shown randomized coding patterns, making expert authentication vital).
Decoding Special Hermès Markings (Exotic Skins & Orders)
Beyond the date, you may see extra symbols next to the Hermès bag logo. These indicate the type of material or a special order.
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The Horseshoe (Horseshoe Stamp / HSS): Indicates a Special Order (SO) customized by a VIP client. Usually features bi-color leather.
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The Shooting Star: Indicates a bag made for a Hermès craftsperson's personal use (not originally for sale).
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Square (☐): Alligator Mississippiensis.
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Two Dots (..): Crocodile Niloticus.
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Caret (^): Crocodile Porosus.
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Dash (-): Lizard.
Can You Check a Hermès Serial Number Online?
A common question we get is: "Is there a Hermès serial number check tool?"
The short answer is no. Unlike Chanel's microchips or Louis Vuitton's date codes, there is no public database where you can type in a Hermès blind stamp and get a verification result.
The stamp is for internal manufacturing tracking. If someone claims to "run the serial number" through a database, they are likely scamming you. Authenticity must be verified through physical inspection of the bag's construction.
The Danger: Why a "Correct" Stamp Does Not Mean Real
Here is the uncomfortable truth: Counterfeiters have access to this blog post, too.
High-tier "Super Fakes" have perfect blind stamps. They use the correct letter for the year, the correct shape, and even mimic the depth of the embossing. Relying solely on a Hermès blind stamp guide is the most common mistake buyers make.
To verify a Hermès bag, you must look beyond the code:
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Stitching: Is it the signature piqûre sellier (saddle stitch)? Machines cannot perfectly replicate the slight angle of a hand-stitch.
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Hardware: Is the engraving clean, or does it look laser-etched?
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Leather Grain: Does the Togo or Clemence leather possess the correct richness and scent?
Don't Risk Thousands on a Guess
If you are buying or selling a Hermès bag, a simple visual check of the code isn't enough. You need a trained human eye.
At Legitique, we specialize in manual, expert-only authentication. We do not rely on AI bots that can be fooled by photos. Real experts analyze the stitching tension, hardware fonts, leather grain, and the blind stamp to ensure the bag is legitimate.
Why Choose Legitique?
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Human Expertise: Every item is reviewed by professional authenticators.
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Free Certificate: We include an official Certificate of Authenticity (usually worth €30+) for free.
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Safety First: 24-hour return period on our service.
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Money-Back Guarantee: If something goes wrong with our authentication, we refund you.
Team Legitique Online now!
Frequently Asked Questions
Does every Hermès bag have a stamp? Yes, mostly. However, on very old vintage bags, the stamp may have faded into the leather. On reversible belts, the stamp is often near the buckle hole.
What does the "S" stamp mean? An "S" stamp typically denotes a "Sale" item (sold at employee or seasonal sales). These items cannot be returned to a Hermès boutique.
My Birkin has no stamp, is it fake? Not necessarily. It could be faint, hidden in a deep crease, or erased over time. However, a missing stamp is a red flag that warrants a professional Legitique check.
Ensure your investment is genuine. Don't rely on luck; rely on Legitique.
